Blog 20: New Work for Cluster: The Spoils of War

I have been invited to exhibit at Cluster – an international contemporary art jewellery fair in London in March 2024. (Details below.) I was honoured to have been asked to take part and wanted to create some special pieces for this show.

As Cluster is more focussed on unusual and experimental pieces, this show seemed to afford the opportunity of greater freedom of expression whilst being less focussed on commercial considerations. In this blog, therefore, I wanted to tell the story behind these three new pieces:

 

 For a few years, I have been fascinated by Greek mythology and similar contemporary books, which re-interpret these classical tales. Many of these books re-imagine the stories from a female perspective. I was struck by the cruelty in these stories, especially the cruelty towards women that was regarded as acceptable forms of behaviour. Whilst these tales were written in another time, some of the actions and views they describe, however, feel distinctly contemporary.

We live in a world of war, uncertainty and worry. I am sad that many things I believed about the future when I was growing up and took for granted, my children may not be able to take for granted anymore.

The war in Ukraine, Syria and now in Israel/Gaza (and the many other less often heard about wars in the world) are heart-breaking reminders that when it comes to war, not much has changed. Laws of War exist but are ignored, war criminals can hide and far too few are being brought before the International Criminal Court to account for their crimes.

Women are often at the receiving end in conflicts and wars – not only are they responsible for elderly parents and children, needing to provide safety, food and shelter, but they themselves also become targets for violent aggression.

As was the case for women in the ancient Greek tales. The conqueror had the right to do with the women captives as they pleased. Sexual violence and rape were commonly accepted prizes and deserved entitlements of the victor. Women were mere objects. This also extended to the private sphere and relations between men and women, as the story of Clytemnestra shows.

Clytemnestra (sister of Helen of Sparta) is a main figure in Greek mythology and is often depicted as the archetypal evil wife for killing her hero husband, Agamemnon, the ‘King of Men’ of the Greek Army when returning from their victorious war against Troy.

There are different versions of the story – in one, Clytemnestra’s first husband and baby are brutally murdered by Agamemnon who then forces Clytemnestra to become his wife. Years later, Agamemnon then proceeds to sacrifice his own daughter (with Clytemnestra), Iphigenia, to the gods to gain advantageous travel conditions on their voyage to Troy.

Whilst fictional, this and similar tales reflect the attitudes towards women at the time and how they would be treated and how they suffered at the hands of men in power and as victims of war.

Contemporary examples of violence against women are plentiful. Violence against women in war is used to create fear, to hurt and humiliate, to break up families, communities and societies.

Sexual violence and rape as systematic weapons of war are widely documented. They were used, for example, during the Rwandan genocide where 100,000-250,000 women were raped in three months in 1994.[1]

“UN agencies estimate that more than 60,000 women were raped during the civil war in Sierra Leone (1991-2002), more than 40,000 in Liberia (1989-2003), up to 60,000 in the former Yugoslavia (1992-1995), and at least 200,000 in the Democratic Republic of the Congo since 1998.”[2]

A recent Guardian newspaper[3] article described the horrors inflicted upon the female hostages during the 7th October 2023 attack of Hamas on Israel. The brutalities suffered by these women were justified as “the spoils of war”.

A recent report[4] by the UN Secretary General on sexual violence in conflict refers to sexual violence as “[…] rape, sexual slavery, forced prostitution, forced pregnancy, forced abortion, enforced sterilization, forced marriage, and any other forms of sexual violence of comparable gravity perpetrated against women, men, girls or boys that is directly or indirectly linked to a conflict.”[5]

This widening definition includes men, boys and of course girls and shows that civilians and the most vulnerable are strategic pawns in the calculation and tactics of war, whether by armed state or non-state actors.

The horror of war itself – even without sexual violence – is mainly borne by women, children and other civilians. This is tragically now evident in Gaza. Recent figures indicate that the death toll has surpassed 28,400 people, whilst over 69,000 have been injured.[6] An article by Associated Press calculates that three-quarters of the fatalities are women and children. [7]

War impacts mostly on civilians and as the above figures show, these tend to be largely women and children. Even if managing to survive military attacks and bombings, a lack of access to clean water, food, medical care and shelter present life-threatening conditions – coping with injury, loss and trauma of everything endured, however, are the injuries and wounds that continue a lifetime.

The above themes present the background and story of the three new pieces I created. Their titles are as important as the physical pieces as they provide context and meaning. They seek to present the continuing tragedy of the suffering of women during conflict. The names were chosen to reflect that war affects and makes women suffer across time, place and religion, drawing attention to the different layers of pain and suffering.

The titles of the three pieces are as follows:

·         Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power. (necklace)

·         Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War. (brooch)

·         Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal. (ring)

 

The pieces will also appear on my website in due course. Here are a few more details about each piece:

Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power: Necklace, 166 cm long (a very long necklace to be doubled up around the neck), each link: 30x9 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo). 

This black chain-like necklace with its pearl tears symbolises the ongoing pain from the trauma suffered by women, when these tears and pain mean nothing to and are mere trophies of power for the perpetrator.

 

Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War: Brooch, 45x35 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo), nylon wire.

The gently curved, black shape represents the weeping, closed eye of a crying woman enduring sexual violence in war.

 

Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal: Ring, 30x32 mm, recycled Sterling silver, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo).

The fractured surface, somewhat patched at the back, stands for the emotional scars caused by the trauma women endure during war and which may last a lifetime and which never really heal.

 


Show Details: Cluster Contemporary Jewellery Fair

Date: 21-23 March 2024,
Location: Chelsea Old Town Hall, King’s Rd., London, SW3 5EB;
Nearest Tube: South Kensington, Sloane Square
Opening times: 12 – 8pm
Web: https://www.cluster-london.com/jewellery


[1] Sexual Violence: a Tool of War, UN Special Representative on Sexual Violence in Conflict, Ms Zainab Hawa Bangura, Outreach Programme on the Rwanda Genocide and the United Nations, Department of Public Information, March 2014; p1; https://www.un.org/en/preventgenocide/rwanda/assets/pdf/Backgrounder%20Sexual%20Violence%202014.pdf

[2] Ibid; p1

[3] Evidence points to systematic use of rape and sexual violence by Hamas in 7 October attacks, Bethan McKernan, The Guardian, 18 January 2024

[4] Conflict Related Sexual Violence, Report S/2023/413 of the Secretary General of the UN Security Council, 22 June 2023; https://www.securitycouncilreport.org/atf/cf/%7B65BFCF9B-6D27-4E9C-8CD3-CF6E4FF96FF9%7D/S_2023_413.pdf

[5] Ibid., p2 §5

[6] UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UNOCHA) state current casualty figures as follows: 28,473 Palestinians killed; 69,146 Palestinians injured; 1.7 million persons displaced in Gaza. https://www.ochaopt.org/

[7] Israeli forces rescue 2 hostages in dramatic Gaza raid that killed at least 67 Palestinians, Associated Press article, by Najib Jobain, Josef Federman and Samy Magdy; https://apnews.com/article/israel-hamas-war-news-02-12-2024-4ade5edf47711c6b0c13d1380980de2b

Blog 19: Upcoming Autumn Shows 2023

The autumn craft fair season is well and truly under way and here is a list of my upcoming shows and exhibitions, where you are able to see and try on my pieces.

I will be there in person at the new Acquire Fair in Harrogate and at MADE London.


Acquire:

This is a brand new jewellery and silversmithing fair in Harrogate, Yorkshire and I am delighted to have been selected to partake. I will be there in person and look forward to meeting new customers and to showing and explaining my work.

Dates: 13-15th October 2023

Location: the Crown Hotel, Harrogate, Yorkshire, HG1 2RZ, UK

Website: www.acquire.uk.com

There will be a Private View on the evening of Thursday, 12th October from 6-8pm. If you would like to attend the private view, please let me know. I have a few tickets available.

If you would like to receive a complimentary ticket to the show, please email the organiser: joanne.acquire@gmail.com

I will be showing recent pieces as well as some brand new work.


Yorkshire Sculpture Park:

I will show a selection of my work at the MADE showcase at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park – this is the YSP Shop's changing programme of contemporary craft and jewellery.

Dates: 16th October 2023 – 6th April 2024

Location: Yorkshire Sculpture Park, West Bretton, Wakefield WF4 4LG, UK

Website: www.ysp.org.uk


MADE London

One of my favourite shows is finally back! Early bird tickets at £10 are now available – until 9th October. At the door tickets will be £15. Please see the link below.

I will be there in person, showing recent as well as brand new work and I look forward to meeting old and new customers.

Dates: 3rd – 5th November 2023

Location: THE BLOCK, White Lion Street, Islington, N1 9PD

Website: www.madelondon-angel.co.uk

Buy Tickets: www.madelondon-angel.co.uk/buy-tickets/


New Brewery Arts

A selection of my pieces will be shown at New Brewery Arts for their Christmas exhibtion.

Dates: 28th October 2023 until early January 2024.

Location: New Brewery Arts, Brewery Court, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 1JH

Website: www.newbreweryarts.org.uk


















Blog 18: Teaching
 
 

In the spring of 2018 I taught my first lesson as a jewellery tutor. After conquering my nervousness over the next few weeks, I found myself actually really enjoying it. I have been teaching since then in different settings, including setting up and conducting over 50 craft workshops to refugees, vulnerable adults and children. These workshops were carried out as part of my work for the charity The Breslaff Centre, for whom I worked for over twenty years in different capacities.

In these workshops, we did fabric printing, sewing, paper crafts, embroidery, crochet, jewellery making and weaving, amongst many other activities. I loved seeing women come and sit together, chatting whilst engaging in craft activities and seeing them relax and forget their worries for a while. It was wonderful to see their confidence grow and their pride in the pieces they accomplished.

Jewellery Tutor at Rachel Jeffrey

I started teaching jewellery making at Rachel Jeffrey in 2020 and have since been teaching there regular Monday and Tuesday morning sessions, one-day taster courses as well as some selected Master Classes, which are taught over a whole weekend.

I love teaching and wanted to use the July Blog to talk about this aspect of my work in more detail.

The students who come to us have different motivations and reasons for doing so: some were given a gift voucher for a taster class; others want to learn a new skill, whilst others again want to fulfil a long-cherished dream about making jewellery. A number of the students that come to our regular weekly classes had indeed first done a one-day taster class and wanted to continue from there.

Each class has students with different levels of knowledge – from beginner to students who have done it for many years. There is usually a lovely and friendly atmosphere between the students and they cherish the time to work on their individual projects as much as being able to learn from each other.

At the beginning of each class there is a circa 10 minute technical demonstration by the tutor. Each of us five tutors has their own expertise and style of teaching. I have found it useful to group my demonstrations into themes that run over each 10-week course. Some of the topics we have covered recently were, for example, toolmaking, chains, rings, cold connections and found objects.

My personal ambition when it comes to teaching is being able to reduce the fear about making (or using certain tools or processes) and about being creative. I am so happy when I am able to instil a sense of excitement about the making process and about learning.

I am passionate about learning and want to pass on a curiosity about how to make and that there is often more than one ‘right’ way of doing this. I want to encourage my students to keep trying, even in the face of mistakes or initial failures. I also want them to be kind to themselves during this learning process: I want them to allow mistakes, to learn from them, even be surprised by them and to be excited by what these mistakes can sometimes offer.

Below are some images of the teaching workshop (click to enlarge):

Rachel Jeffrey’s shop and teaching workshop are located in the beautiful village of Wheathampstead in Hertfordshire, not far from St Albans. In this brief video, I chat to her about how she started her shop and workshop and all the classes she offers.

 
 

Rachel has great facilities in her workshop, which is located in the very old building of a former watermill. Below I took a brief video of the workshop. The background noise you can hear is that of the River Lea rushing through the building underneath.

 
 

Finally, here is a selection of the kind words some of our students have left:

I started five years ago. As a hobby or interest as I have always wanted to make jewellery for myself, my own designs. I now sell a few pieces here and there! I have learnt so much and our teacher Hendrike is patient, kind and makes sure we understand every detail. I love coming here every week.” TK

I started nine months ago at Rachel Jeffrey. It’s been a skill that I have always wanted to learn and I haven’t looked back. Our tutor Hendrike is lovely and very thorough. The workshop is a delight and I look forward to the class every week.” NB

I started lessons in 2019 with my daughter who was keen to learn and soon became very keen myself. The workshop is set in the basement area of an old mill, with the sound of the River Lea rushing past. Our tutor Hendrike is excellent, always ready to answer questions and every week there’s a demo showing examples of various skills needed to produce a whole range of jewellery. We have attended several weekend workshops with various tutors which have been very informative.” JS

Hendrike is just the kind of teacher you want – patient, encouraging and positive. Her knowledge and incredible skill are an inspiration to someone who is new to jewellery making and her detailed handouts make everything really clear. I have loved the opportunity to develop my creative ideas and practical skills under her thoughtful and kind tutelage.” KH



If you would like to find out more about the classes that Rachel offers or, indeed, sign up to any of our term time courses starting in September or the taster classes, please click the link below.



Blog 17: Bovey Tracey Craft Festival, 9-11 June 2023

Time has passed quickly and we are already in June today! Preparations are running high for my next event: the wonderful Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey in Devon.

If you would like to come here is some key information for you:

When and Where:

9-11 June 2023 at Bovey Tracey, Devon, Sat Nav Coordinates: TQ13 9AL. For more information on how to get there, click here.

I will be at Stand No: C36

Opening times:

Friday - Sunday 10am - 5pm.

Tickets:

Please click here to buy your tickets in advance.

Workshops and activities:

As always, there will be plenty to do and see: hands-on craft workshops, craft demos, events for families, live music and amazing food – not to mention all the many fantastic makers who will be exhibiting at the Craft Festival! Please click below to:

  • If you would like to book a workshop, please click here.

  • If you would like to see a list of exhibitors, please click here.


I will be at stand C 36 (Marquee C). Do come and say hello, if you are visiting.

Here are some of the pieces I will bring along with me:




Blog 16: Ring Sizing

Rings are beautiful pieces of jewellery that some of us wear every day. Buying a ring for yourself or as a gift is straightforward when you are able to visit the jeweller in person. They can take your exact measurements and make a ring accordingly. Buying a ring online may seem a bit more tricky. Below I will try to explain the what to do when you are unsure about your ring size but would like to order a ring online.

Most of us do not know our ring sizes. To complicate things, ring sizes differ for each of our fingers and the size of each finger is also affected my our body chemistry, temperature and may vary throughout the day.

So, what can you do to find out your ring size?

If you are unsure about your ring size, send me an email and I can send you a ring sizer in the post. You could also pop in to your local jeweller and ask for a ring fitting. Wrapping a strip of paper or string around the finger will unfortunately not yield accurate enough readings.

How to measure the finger size using the ring sizer:

  • When you receive the ring sizer in the post, it is best to take several measurements of the same finger during different times of the day. The fingers tend to swell when warm and become smaller when cold.

  • Slide the ring sizer onto your selected finger and tighten or enlarge it until it fits comfortably over the knuckles of the finger.

  • A slight resistance should be felt to slide it over your knuckle. The reading should be taken at the widest point - i.e. when it just sits on the knuckle.

  • Repeat this several times until you are sure that you have found the correct measurement and read the letter as shown on the pack.

International Ring Sizes

Ring sizing systems are unfortunately not standardised and different countries have their own ways of measuring ring sizes which not always exactly translate. In the attached table I give approximates conversion sizes. I use the British system of ring sizes, which uses the letters from A-Z.

Average Ring Sizes

Some ring sizes are more popular than others. For women these are the sizes between K-N, with size M being the most frequently bought. For men, average sizes are R-U, with size T being the most popular one.

Ring sizing in Person

Throughout the year I take part in several craft and design fairs in different parts of the country. It is always lovely to meet customers in person and if you are near one of these events, why not come along for a free ring fitting? If you would like to be notified when my next live event is, just subscribe to my mailing list which can be found at the bottom of every page on my website.

Buying a Ring as a Surprise

When a ring is bought as a gift and you do not know their ring size, ask perhaps a friend or relative if they know it. You could also take another ring the person wears on that particular finger and take a measurement. We need the widest inner diameter of the ring (see image). Be as precise as possible in your measurement.

More Questions?

If you have any more questions, why not just send me an email? Please click the link below. I’m also happy to chat via zoom if that suits better.